A.Lange & Söhne presents the new Cabaret Tourbillon Handwerkskunst, a gorgeous 30 piece limited edition / special version of the world’s first mechanical wristwatch with stop seconds for the tourbillon as presented by the German Watchmaker in 2008.
A.Lange & Söhne presents the new Cabaret Tourbillon Handwerkskunst, a gorgeous 30 piece limited edition / special version of the world’s first mechanical wristwatch with stop seconds for the tourbillon as presented by the German Watchmaker in 2008.
TAG Heuer and gaming giant Nintendo, just hours ago, announced their latest collaboration timepiece offering wearers a fun new way to get more active. Meet the new TAG Heuer Connected x Super Mario Limited Edition. If you’re a 1980’s baby, this particular collaboration should reignite some of your fondest memories. With more than 370 million Super Mario games sold worldwide since the game launched in 1985, the overall Mario franchise is probably the bestselling video game franchise of all time.
This limited edition Connected features a 45mm Titanium Case with subtle references that will delight Super Mario fans. The bezel for example features three iconic symbols at 3, 6 and 9 o clock (A toad, a pipe and a star respectively) in a nod to the Super Mario objects included in the dial animations that the user can unlock and discover only when achieving goals throughout the day. The bezel graduation, push buttons and crown logo are filled with Super Mario’s famous red cap’s lacquered colour, making the watch instantly stand out from the core collection. The straps are probably one of the strongest selling points of the watch – black leather on red rubber and a sporty alternative in matching red perforated rubber. Engraved on the strap buckles and on the crown is the M symbol of Mario. Lastly, the screw-down case-back bears the special inscription “TAG Heuer x Super Mario Limited Edition”.
As for the software side of things – TAG Heuer’s famous Connected watch faces have been reinterpreted with Super Mario special versions, four dials revisited to include special details associated with Super Mario. The Timekeeping watchface was reskinned using the retro elements from the 1985 version of Super Mario Bros. with Mario, all in pixels. Also, two versions of the Heuer 02 watchface were created exclusively for this edition: a fun rendition using Super Mario’s iconic red and blue colours, and a more classic one with subtle touches of Super Mario’s red cap. Lastly, the Orbital watchface had its neural network replaced by Super Mario’s iconic elements rotating in a beautiful and mesmerizing movement.
The relationship between the watch and the wearer gets a lot more exciting when Mario himself makes an appearance. The animations are based on the gamification rewards system: Mario greets you with a welcoming salute in the morning and as the day progresses and you rack up your step count, you unlock rewards at each stage of your daily target – 25%, 50%, 75% and 100% – a different animation plays out on the dial. These take the form of Super Mario’s famous objects: at 3 o’clock the Super Mushroom that makes Mario grow, at 6 o’clock the Pipe that allows him to travel fast and at 9 o’clock the Super Star that makes him invincible lights up! And when you reach 100% of your daily step count target, Mario climbs the Goal Pole, another iconic feature of the video game.
The idea is inspired by the famous “easter egg” concept that all gamers know very well, which consists of hiding features and surprises as a bonus in video games.
Presented in a packaging designed exclusively for this collaboration along with a travel case in Super Mario red, the new TAG Heuer Connected x Super Mario Limited Edition is limited to 2,000 pieces and will be available at select TAG Heuer boutiques worldwide and at www.tagheuer.com in some regions, from 15th July 2021.
Facts and figures:
TAG Heuer Connected x Super Mario Limited Edition Reference SBG8A13.EB0238
TAG Heuer Connected watchfaces
TAG Heuer x Super Mario animated watchface*
TAG Heuer x Super Mario interface and reskins watchfaces
(exclusive to the Limited Edition)
45 mm diameter
13.5 mm thickness
Water-resistant to 5 ATM
430 mAh battery, lasts for a full day
One full day under normal usage conditions (20 hours with 1 hour of activity), 6 hours for sports use (GPS, heart rate and music)
Charge time: full charge in 1 hour 30 minutes at temperatures of
between 15 C and 45 C
Heart rate monitor, compass, accelerometer, metrics and recorded activities
Data accuracy: the data and values generated or calculated by the TAG Heuer Connected smartwatch when monitoring activities are designed to provide a precise estimate of the metrics and activities recorded. However, these data and values cannot always be 100% accurate and must not be used for purposes requiring 100% accuracy. The TAG Heuer Connected smartwatch features a heart rate monitor, but this is not a medical device and is not designed to provide medical diagnosis services or medical advice. It must not be used to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any illness or disease.
The screw-down caseback bears the special inscription “TAG Heuer x Super Mario Limited Edition”
Super Mario red lacquer applied to the bezel graduations
Red lacquered push buttons
M symbol of Mario engraved on the crown in red lacquer
Black leather strap on red rubber
Additional perforated rubber strap in Super Mario red
Steel folding clasp engraved with M symbol of Mario
Like all things Japanese, the Citizen Calibre 0200 champions finery and precision above everything else. A first for the house, the automatic mechanical watch comes in a comfortable 40mm in a lugless structure and an integrated bracelet. While the stainless steel bracelet community of watches may be a crowded one, the Calibre 0200 definitely jumps off the page for more reasons than one.
At first the watch looks simple, clean and minimal—true to the brand’s aesthetic and heritage. Upon closer inspection, the beauty in the details come to light, it’s almost like they are just for the wearer, it’s almost romantic. The intimacy begins on the dial itself, the ‘sand-ripple pattern’ as Citizen terms it, gives birth to a rough and matt surface in deep charcoal lending itself as the perfect canvas for the dauphine-shaped hands and baton markers. Although they are lume-less, the diamond tipped tool finishing leads to a mirror-like reflective quality that makes time visible in most lighting conditions. The seconds sub dial comes to life with a completely different finish that features concentric circles, brightening up the overall look of the watch dramatically.
But this is just the tip of the surface, quite literally, what really makes this piece one to watch out for is what lies within. Named after the movement itself, the Calibre 0200 is a movement made in collaboration with Swiss movement specialist La Joux-Perret. Combining the best of Japanese watch making and Swiss nuance the calibre 0200 features a free-sprung balance wheel that makes it highly shock resistant, and can achieve a daily accuracy of -3 to +5 seconds that surpasses chronometric standards. Ticking all the right boxes when it comes to a fine mechanical movement with 60 hours of power reserve it not only works beautifully but looks the part—each piece is finished with fine swiss techniques like satinage for the upper surfaces of bridges, diamond-cutting for the outer edges, the works. At approx $8000 Australian Dollars, it trumps its counterparts in more ways than one. While nobody may have said it yet, it is definitely a watch to watch and one to have.
Presented for the very first time on an all bronze bracelet, Tudor presents the new Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze Boutique Edition.
Beyond The Edge is the name of TAG Heuer latest advertising campaign to mark the launch of the new Aquaracer Professional 300 collection, which was unveiled at Watches and Wonders 2021.
In an explosion of saturated colours bursting with energy, TAG Heuer is raising the bar when it comes to the aesthetics around fine watchmaking. The video which was filmed in Nice, France, Nazaré, Portugal and Hawaii, by young Swiss filmmaker Jonas Egi, features three outstanding athletes exploring their own limits – American waterman Kai Lenny, a long-standing TAG Heuer ambassador, free diving champion, Videographer and Friend of the Brand Julie Gautier and diver Robin George.
“We are very proud and excited to release this amazing campaign dedicated to the launch of the new TAG Heuer Aquaracer collection. The idea behind the campaign is to take the customer on the journey beyond the edge of extreme sports. We want to inspire our audience by highlighting those special moments when world class athletes go beyond their limits and enter new dimensions. In doing so we are also able to showcase the incredible qualities of the new Aquaracer range.” explains George Ciz, Chief Marketing Officer for TAG Heuer.
“The decision to go with visually heightened images, using highly saturated colours and an abstract aesthetic bordering on science fiction breaks with the normal clichés associated with surfing and ocean images. We are instantly transported to another dimension, deep into the imagination. It’s about sport and luxury, high precision and artistic vision, yin and yang you might say – a marriage of the extremes that are unique to TAG Heuer.” Alexander Kalchev, Chief Creative Officer at DDB Paris.
In the film, which reintroduces its ultimate tool watch, TAG Heuer reaffirms its endless quest for challenge, paying tribute to the mental strength we all have inside us.
What makes the 2021 Aquaracers special? We caught up with Guy Bove, Product Director, TAG Heuer, just days after the second edition of the digital version of Watches and Wonders to find out.
Excerpts from the interview:
What makes the new Aquaracers special?
What makes the new Aquaracers special is firstly its history. It’s a watch we’ve had in our portfolio since the last 25 years. It is super wearable for a fairly big watch. It is very distinctive with its 12 sided bezel which we now merged with knurling on the edges for better grip. So you have a bezel which looks good but is at the same time very functional. We’ve given the watch an angular look which is what makes it, sporty yet elegant. So you can wear it with pretty much any attire and still take it around the world and go diving. We hope that the work we put into it will keep it looking good and relevant for years to come. The watch looks great on smaller wrists as well, despite its 43mm size. As far as I can tell it is the perfect everyday watch.
The previous generation Aquaracers were offered in 41mm and 43mm sizes and now they’re being offered in a 43mm and 36mm. Taking into consideration the success of the 40mm dive watch globally, was this a tough call?
I would probably have to say #WatchThisSpace. Even though the previous generation was also 43mm, it was a lot bigger and chunkier, so it felt like a big watch on the wrist. With our new generation 43mm, it is designed extremely well, so even though it is a 43mm, it wears very elegantly.
Vintage timepiece or tribute pieces are not easy projects to work on typically. Could you take us through some of the challenges you faced with the Tribute to Reference 844 Limited Edition.
The first challenge was figuring out how to use the 844 because that reference led to a whole series of tool watches. There have been a lot of generational changes. What we didn’t want to do is go back to our past and recreate the 844 as is. There were some things about the 844 which we used in terms of look and feel in the current Aquaracer collection. For example: the knurling on the sides of the bezel, the large hour markers on the dial at 12, 3 and 9, the octagonal markers. We used the idea of the dial layout in our regular collection. We took away the engraved dial surface and went for a flat look like the original 844. We also used red markings on the dial like the original 844 to ensure wearers don’t make any mistakes when transcribing time. Basically 1:34PM is 13:34PM in 24 hour time and having that written on the dial helps people avoid any errors in reading time. On the original 844, we had a tropical rubber strap which had a leather like texture with holes in the front for better breathability. We used that idea but went for a textile finish instead of leather and we also made the holes angular to tie in with the rest of the design. We used the main look and feel of the 844 with an overall Aquaracer design. Then on the dial we went more specific and we used the vintage look. One of the things that is hard to spot in the press images is the titanium case (Not Steel) and so it is a high spec model in the Aquaracer range.
TAG Heuer is a brand known for its now-iconic designs. Where do you stand on the ‘Date Debate’?
If you have a look at the new Aquaracers you will see that the date has now moved to the 6 o clock position and we have integrated a magnifying glass under the glass. It does not stick out. It helps users see the date better. We’ve started moving our date windows to the 6 o clock position which also makes it less conspicuous, but also adds a little bit of presence to the 6 o clock part of the watch. We feel our customers like the technical features as well as the design of our watches and a lot of them in our case have date windows. I feel having a date window simply adds to the experience of having a time teller on your wrist.
What is the most challenging stage of watch creation?
If you have a look at our brand, each collection describes a different facet of TAG Heuer. We’ve got an elegance collection, tool watches, everyday watches, the connected – Each of these watches tell a different story. The first question when you look at a new design is how is that facet going to tell the TAG Heuer story. Secondly, who should it bring into the brand. And then you get into size, thickness and of course not to forget what part of our history is this going to refer to. There is a lot of thinking that goes on prior to designing. The new Aquaracers are 2 years of work which involved weekly rounds of design, discussions with our CEO, figuring out which colours to use, design, mechanics – There is a lot of work that goes on behind the scenes. Yes the watch looks nice and hopefully it tells the story we intended it to tell but all of that comes with thousands of design decisions. It is all about getting that to line up and look effortless. We want our watches to fit in with the idea of continuity and also to stand out as a great watch.
Do you have a favourite in the collection?
It would be the Tribute to 844. First off all I love titanium watches and I like the colour scheme with the Lume and the red and I do like more of a rugged look. The flat dial also works well for me but I have to say I wore the blue dial 43mm for about a week recently and I just kept looking at my wrist time and again. They’re very functional and beautiful and sit very well.
Swiss watchmaker Tudor has found a new address, right in the heart of the most liveable city in the world. This week, leading specialist watch retailer, The Hour Glass and TUDOR announced the opening of Australia’s first TUDOR boutique at 257 Collins Street, Melbourne furthering the brand’s presence in the region that dates back to 1932.
“We’re delighted to be opening the first Tudor boutique in Australia and New Zealand. Located in the heart of Melbourne’s
luxury shopping precinct on Collins Street, the new Tudor boutique offers watch enthusiasts an immersive look into one of
the most exciting brands in contemporary watchmaking.” Michael Tay – Group Managing Director, The Hour Glass Limited.
The boutique which occupies the ground floor of Emirates House features an area of 60 square metres. On display are classic, sport, diving and heritage inspired watches, including the newly released TUDOR Royal line, a sport-chic watch with an integrated bracelet, signature-notched bezel and automatic movement, both versatile and affordable.
To further establish the brand’s distinctive image TUDOR has reimagined the architecture and design of its boutiques globally. The concept places TUDOR watches as the main focus of attention and expresses the character and identity of the brand. This new identity reinterprets the graphic principles within the retail environment. The TUDOR ambassadors are strongly featured and set the tone; making the space their own. Their achievements accompany the visitors’ experience. On a more technical level, the colour palette is inspired by the brand’s three iconic colours (black, red, white) and is presented in a range of materials. These materials are used in a clean, streamlined, uncompromising manner. Brushed black, transparent red and structured white: the colours become textures. This new concept allows visitor to be entirely immersed in the world of Tudor.
“This year we launched the Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 that we nicknamed the Quadriptyque. This is because it has 11 complications on 4 faces. You have a perpetual calendar and minute repeater on the case and what creates all the amazement is the Lunar cycle indications – with lunar cycles of the phases of the moon which is called synodic cycles. We also incorporated two additional cycles which are less known but very beautiful and emotional which is the height of the moon to see where the moon is in reference to the Earth. The draconic cycle is basically the intersection of the moon into the axis between the Earth and Sun, so when the moon is in between Earth and Sun you can create an eclipse. We featured all these cycles on this timepiece, therefore creating what we think is one of the most complicated Reverso’s and Luna Cycle’s ever. We wanted to showcase the complications in a realistic way, so just like you see them in a planetarium, and this was possible by our watchmakers and designers and craftsmen”, Lionel Favre, Product Design Director, Jaeger-LeCoultre
The Quadriptyque takes us back to 1989, when Patek Phillipe introduced the most world’s most complicated timepiece – the Caliber 89 pocket watch. But that was a pocket watch! How challenging was it to bring together 11 complications and still keep the Reverso to a wearable size. What were some of the challenges considering the constraints of the proportions of a Reverso case?
2021 marks the 90th Anniversary of the Reverso. It is the signature collection of Jaeger-LeCoultre. And so we decided to work on the many facets of the Reverso including the Grand Complications. We wanted to showcase all our savoire-fair in the Reverso.
Proportions are very important in the Reverso because as you know the Reverso is a Golden Ratio Proportion and the Quadriptyque is born on the basis on the Triptyque we did in 2006 and we wanted to do better so that’s why we decided to respect the Golden Ratio. It was challenging because there were a lot of complications involved. Challenging for the designers yes, but more so for the watchmakers. The thickness of the case was another factor – The target was to create a watch really wearable. We did not want to create a watch for a museum but something that will be worn by our clients. It’s a 15mm watch – similar to the Polaris in terms of thickness but with 11 complications and 4 faces – so it was very challenging.
Placing the Grande Date next to the flying tourbillon must have been quite a challenge. What are some of the other patents in the Quadriptyque?
The Quadriptyque has 12 patents. 3 of which are new. The first one pertains to the Grande date. We created one of the smallest mechanisms to run the Grande Date. The other patents are on the minute repeater. Sound is very important to Jaeger-LeCoultre and we have been doing Minute repeaters since 1870. I believe we have made more minute repeaters than any watch maison out there. We have the Trebuchet hammers that chime beautifully. We have patents on the gongs – the way we tune them. We attached the gongs to the sapphire crystal. The major innovation in this minute repeater is that we have completely cancelled the gap time, so if you have a silent minute repeater you have a very long gap when there is no quarter for example between hours and minutes. All thanks to two patents we have been successful in completely erasing those gaps.
Another first for the Reverso is the semi-jumping digital hour indication on the Tribute Nonantième, an entirely new, manually wound calibre 826. Talk us through this.
Complications first made their appearance in 1991 in Reverso’s. Before that it was a time only watch. 1991 marked the 60th anniversary of Reverso and it was at that time we created the Reverso Soixantième. Since then we have tried to celebrate our anniversaries with various interpretations featuring incredible complications.
This year we wanted to feature another way of reading time, that is, on the back of the watch. We wanted to reinvent the digital hour complication. The Nonantième showcases the digital hours and minutes with a night and day indication. We chose this complication because we wanted something very consistent with the universe of Reverso and this complication was famous in the 30’s because of its level of purity. It was the perfect fit. Aesthetically it is interesting because you conserve large surfaces of polished metal, so it works very well.
From an industry perspective, there was a recent announcement by a brand, where they successfully converted an entire escapement system into a singular component, using new-age metallurgy. Your thoughts?
Jaeger-LeCoultre being a 188-year-old maison and being created on the idea of innovations – we are all in for continuing to push boundaries of fine watchmaking. That being said watchmaking should remain mechanical in a way and so we are looking for more mechanical ways to improve our watches, precision and also durability, so the watch can last forever and can always have interchangeable parts. Antoine LeCoultre, our founder received many medals for his capacity to create watches whose parts can be easily repaired or replaced, which was very important at the time and still is. And so we are looking into this as opposed to replacing an entire movement with one single part. We are looking into ways of refining the way mechanical watches can perform than just simplifying it. Watchmaking is also about how to create a beautiful movement. It is not just engineering but also beautiful mechanics and we try with our watchmakers to design the mechanics. Everything is done for its beauty. The choice of a colour of a screw for example, is decided for its relevance and beauty.
What is the future of traditional watchmaking, in an era where technology is ever evolving, especially over the last decade?
Personally, I am convinced that watches created with a lot of know-how and skills are real vectors of emotion. I am sure that this is the future of watchmaking. We need to convince our customers with a lot of emotion in our product.
This year URWERK marks the end of the UR 105 with it’s last edition: the UR-105 CT Tantalum Hull.
When Tudor first unveiled an all black ceramic Black Bay for Only Watch 2019 (Charity Auction), it left many Tudorholics down under, wondering whether the material / model would ever make a comeback. This week, fans of the brand have every reason to celebrate with Tudor unveiling a new standard production all black ceramic Black Bay – with a few tweaks of course. Meet the new Tudor Black Bay Ceramic.
This handsome, resilient, everyday timepiece comes with a matt black 41mm ceramic case and a unidirectional rotatable bezel in black-PVD-treated 316L steel with 60-minute graduated disc in black ceramic with sunray satin finish and engraved markings and numerals. Its matt black monobloc ceramic case has sand-blasted surfaces with bevelled edges, mirror-polished for a striking contrast, and is finished with very pronounced lines. Note: It is also the first Tudor Watch to be certified by Federal Institute of Metrology or METAS.
METAS or the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology tests a watch under certain parameters, making it a ‘Master Chronometer’. These include the main functional characteristics of a watch including precision, resistance to magnetic fields, waterproofness and power reserve. Its standards are incredibly high, starting with precision. In order to qualify, a watch must be able to function within a 5-second range of variation each day (0 +5), that is to say 5 seconds less than the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) (-4 +6) carried out on a single movement and a second less than TUDOR’s internal standard, which is applied to the brand’s models with a Manufacture Calibre (-2 +4). The certification also guarantees the timekeeping accuracy of a watch subjected to magnetic fields of 15,000 gauss. Finally, it also guarantees that the waterproof capability claimed by the manufacturer conforms with the International Organization for Standardization (ISO) standard 22810:2010, as does the power reserve of each Master Chronometer watch. It should also be noted that two prerequisites are necessary before the certification can be obtained: Swiss manufacturing must conform with the criteria of Swiss Made, and the movement must be certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC).
Waterproof to 200m, the case is fitted with a new automatic movement Calibre MT5602-1U, which powers the Black Bay Ceramic. It has the finish typical of TUDOR Manufacture Calibres but is entirely in black, in line with the general appearance of the watch, emphasising its distinctive performance. Its rotor in black tungsten monobloc is openwork and satin-brushed with sand-blasted details, and its bridges and mainplate have alternate sand-blasted, polished surfaces and laser decorations. Its build is designed to ensure robustness and precision, as is its variable inertia balance, which is maintained by a sturdy traversing bridge with a two-point fixing. Together with its non-magnetic silicon hairspring, the Manufacture Calibre MT5602-1U is able to function within a tolerance range of 5 seconds (0 +5). The high-functioning automatic calibre offers a respectable 70-hour power reserve certified by METAS.
Compared to the unique model of 2019 which featured an all black dial and matt black indexes and hands, this one comes with a black dial and applied hour markers with off-white luminescent material. Definitely a lot more legible. Worn on a hybrid leather and rubber strap with 316L steel folding clasp and safety catch in black PVD-treated 316L steel and an additional black fabric strap with cream band and black PVD-treated 316L steel buckle (Included in the box), the new Tudor Black bay Ceramic is priced at approx. $6,440 Australian Dollars. Buyers also benefit from a five-year transferable guarantee with no registration or periodic maintenance checks required