Presented for the very first time on an all bronze bracelet, Tudor presents the new Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze Boutique Edition.
Hours and Minutes Australia
TAG Heuer Reveals New Advertising Campaign To Mark The Launch Of The New Aquaracer Professional 300 Collection
Beyond The Edge is the name of TAG Heuer latest advertising campaign to mark the launch of the new Aquaracer Professional 300 collection, which was unveiled at Watches and Wonders 2021.
In an explosion of saturated colours bursting with energy, TAG Heuer is raising the bar when it comes to the aesthetics around fine watchmaking. The video which was filmed in Nice, France, Nazaré, Portugal and Hawaii, by young Swiss filmmaker Jonas Egi, features three outstanding athletes exploring their own limits – American waterman Kai Lenny, a long-standing TAG Heuer ambassador, free diving champion, Videographer and Friend of the Brand Julie Gautier and diver Robin George.
“We are very proud and excited to release this amazing campaign dedicated to the launch of the new TAG Heuer Aquaracer collection. The idea behind the campaign is to take the customer on the journey beyond the edge of extreme sports. We want to inspire our audience by highlighting those special moments when world class athletes go beyond their limits and enter new dimensions. In doing so we are also able to showcase the incredible qualities of the new Aquaracer range.” explains George Ciz, Chief Marketing Officer for TAG Heuer.
“The decision to go with visually heightened images, using highly saturated colours and an abstract aesthetic bordering on science fiction breaks with the normal clichés associated with surfing and ocean images. We are instantly transported to another dimension, deep into the imagination. It’s about sport and luxury, high precision and artistic vision, yin and yang you might say – a marriage of the extremes that are unique to TAG Heuer.” Alexander Kalchev, Chief Creative Officer at DDB Paris.
In the film, which reintroduces its ultimate tool watch, TAG Heuer reaffirms its endless quest for challenge, paying tribute to the mental strength we all have inside us.
What makes the 2021 Aquaracers special? We caught up with Guy Bove, Product Director, TAG Heuer, just days after the second edition of the digital version of Watches and Wonders to find out.
Excerpts from the interview:
What makes the new Aquaracers special?
What makes the new Aquaracers special is firstly its history. It’s a watch we’ve had in our portfolio since the last 25 years. It is super wearable for a fairly big watch. It is very distinctive with its 12 sided bezel which we now merged with knurling on the edges for better grip. So you have a bezel which looks good but is at the same time very functional. We’ve given the watch an angular look which is what makes it, sporty yet elegant. So you can wear it with pretty much any attire and still take it around the world and go diving. We hope that the work we put into it will keep it looking good and relevant for years to come. The watch looks great on smaller wrists as well, despite its 43mm size. As far as I can tell it is the perfect everyday watch.
The previous generation Aquaracers were offered in 41mm and 43mm sizes and now they’re being offered in a 43mm and 36mm. Taking into consideration the success of the 40mm dive watch globally, was this a tough call?
I would probably have to say #WatchThisSpace. Even though the previous generation was also 43mm, it was a lot bigger and chunkier, so it felt like a big watch on the wrist. With our new generation 43mm, it is designed extremely well, so even though it is a 43mm, it wears very elegantly.
Vintage timepiece or tribute pieces are not easy projects to work on typically. Could you take us through some of the challenges you faced with the Tribute to Reference 844 Limited Edition.
The first challenge was figuring out how to use the 844 because that reference led to a whole series of tool watches. There have been a lot of generational changes. What we didn’t want to do is go back to our past and recreate the 844 as is. There were some things about the 844 which we used in terms of look and feel in the current Aquaracer collection. For example: the knurling on the sides of the bezel, the large hour markers on the dial at 12, 3 and 9, the octagonal markers. We used the idea of the dial layout in our regular collection. We took away the engraved dial surface and went for a flat look like the original 844. We also used red markings on the dial like the original 844 to ensure wearers don’t make any mistakes when transcribing time. Basically 1:34PM is 13:34PM in 24 hour time and having that written on the dial helps people avoid any errors in reading time. On the original 844, we had a tropical rubber strap which had a leather like texture with holes in the front for better breathability. We used that idea but went for a textile finish instead of leather and we also made the holes angular to tie in with the rest of the design. We used the main look and feel of the 844 with an overall Aquaracer design. Then on the dial we went more specific and we used the vintage look. One of the things that is hard to spot in the press images is the titanium case (Not Steel) and so it is a high spec model in the Aquaracer range.
TAG Heuer is a brand known for its now-iconic designs. Where do you stand on the ‘Date Debate’?
If you have a look at the new Aquaracers you will see that the date has now moved to the 6 o clock position and we have integrated a magnifying glass under the glass. It does not stick out. It helps users see the date better. We’ve started moving our date windows to the 6 o clock position which also makes it less conspicuous, but also adds a little bit of presence to the 6 o clock part of the watch. We feel our customers like the technical features as well as the design of our watches and a lot of them in our case have date windows. I feel having a date window simply adds to the experience of having a time teller on your wrist.
What is the most challenging stage of watch creation?
If you have a look at our brand, each collection describes a different facet of TAG Heuer. We’ve got an elegance collection, tool watches, everyday watches, the connected – Each of these watches tell a different story. The first question when you look at a new design is how is that facet going to tell the TAG Heuer story. Secondly, who should it bring into the brand. And then you get into size, thickness and of course not to forget what part of our history is this going to refer to. There is a lot of thinking that goes on prior to designing. The new Aquaracers are 2 years of work which involved weekly rounds of design, discussions with our CEO, figuring out which colours to use, design, mechanics – There is a lot of work that goes on behind the scenes. Yes the watch looks nice and hopefully it tells the story we intended it to tell but all of that comes with thousands of design decisions. It is all about getting that to line up and look effortless. We want our watches to fit in with the idea of continuity and also to stand out as a great watch.
Do you have a favourite in the collection?
It would be the Tribute to 844. First off all I love titanium watches and I like the colour scheme with the Lume and the red and I do like more of a rugged look. The flat dial also works well for me but I have to say I wore the blue dial 43mm for about a week recently and I just kept looking at my wrist time and again. They’re very functional and beautiful and sit very well.
Swiss watchmaker Tudor has found a new address, right in the heart of the most liveable city in the world. This week, leading specialist watch retailer, The Hour Glass and TUDOR announced the opening of Australia’s first TUDOR boutique at 257 Collins Street, Melbourne furthering the brand’s presence in the region that dates back to 1932.
“We’re delighted to be opening the first Tudor boutique in Australia and New Zealand. Located in the heart of Melbourne’s
luxury shopping precinct on Collins Street, the new Tudor boutique offers watch enthusiasts an immersive look into one of
the most exciting brands in contemporary watchmaking.” Michael Tay – Group Managing Director, The Hour Glass Limited.
The boutique which occupies the ground floor of Emirates House features an area of 60 square metres. On display are classic, sport, diving and heritage inspired watches, including the newly released TUDOR Royal line, a sport-chic watch with an integrated bracelet, signature-notched bezel and automatic movement, both versatile and affordable.
To further establish the brand’s distinctive image TUDOR has reimagined the architecture and design of its boutiques globally. The concept places TUDOR watches as the main focus of attention and expresses the character and identity of the brand. This new identity reinterprets the graphic principles within the retail environment. The TUDOR ambassadors are strongly featured and set the tone; making the space their own. Their achievements accompany the visitors’ experience. On a more technical level, the colour palette is inspired by the brand’s three iconic colours (black, red, white) and is presented in a range of materials. These materials are used in a clean, streamlined, uncompromising manner. Brushed black, transparent red and structured white: the colours become textures. This new concept allows visitor to be entirely immersed in the world of Tudor.
“This year we launched the Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 that we nicknamed the Quadriptyque. This is because it has 11 complications on 4 faces. You have a perpetual calendar and minute repeater on the case and what creates all the amazement is the Lunar cycle indications – with lunar cycles of the phases of the moon which is called synodic cycles. We also incorporated two additional cycles which are less known but very beautiful and emotional which is the height of the moon to see where the moon is in reference to the Earth. The draconic cycle is basically the intersection of the moon into the axis between the Earth and Sun, so when the moon is in between Earth and Sun you can create an eclipse. We featured all these cycles on this timepiece, therefore creating what we think is one of the most complicated Reverso’s and Luna Cycle’s ever. We wanted to showcase the complications in a realistic way, so just like you see them in a planetarium, and this was possible by our watchmakers and designers and craftsmen”, Lionel Favre, Product Design Director, Jaeger-LeCoultre
The Quadriptyque takes us back to 1989, when Patek Phillipe introduced the most world’s most complicated timepiece – the Caliber 89 pocket watch. But that was a pocket watch! How challenging was it to bring together 11 complications and still keep the Reverso to a wearable size. What were some of the challenges considering the constraints of the proportions of a Reverso case?
2021 marks the 90th Anniversary of the Reverso. It is the signature collection of Jaeger-LeCoultre. And so we decided to work on the many facets of the Reverso including the Grand Complications. We wanted to showcase all our savoire-fair in the Reverso.
Proportions are very important in the Reverso because as you know the Reverso is a Golden Ratio Proportion and the Quadriptyque is born on the basis on the Triptyque we did in 2006 and we wanted to do better so that’s why we decided to respect the Golden Ratio. It was challenging because there were a lot of complications involved. Challenging for the designers yes, but more so for the watchmakers. The thickness of the case was another factor – The target was to create a watch really wearable. We did not want to create a watch for a museum but something that will be worn by our clients. It’s a 15mm watch – similar to the Polaris in terms of thickness but with 11 complications and 4 faces – so it was very challenging.
Placing the Grande Date next to the flying tourbillon must have been quite a challenge. What are some of the other patents in the Quadriptyque?
The Quadriptyque has 12 patents. 3 of which are new. The first one pertains to the Grande date. We created one of the smallest mechanisms to run the Grande Date. The other patents are on the minute repeater. Sound is very important to Jaeger-LeCoultre and we have been doing Minute repeaters since 1870. I believe we have made more minute repeaters than any watch maison out there. We have the Trebuchet hammers that chime beautifully. We have patents on the gongs – the way we tune them. We attached the gongs to the sapphire crystal. The major innovation in this minute repeater is that we have completely cancelled the gap time, so if you have a silent minute repeater you have a very long gap when there is no quarter for example between hours and minutes. All thanks to two patents we have been successful in completely erasing those gaps.
Another first for the Reverso is the semi-jumping digital hour indication on the Tribute Nonantième, an entirely new, manually wound calibre 826. Talk us through this.
Complications first made their appearance in 1991 in Reverso’s. Before that it was a time only watch. 1991 marked the 60th anniversary of Reverso and it was at that time we created the Reverso Soixantième. Since then we have tried to celebrate our anniversaries with various interpretations featuring incredible complications.
This year we wanted to feature another way of reading time, that is, on the back of the watch. We wanted to reinvent the digital hour complication. The Nonantième showcases the digital hours and minutes with a night and day indication. We chose this complication because we wanted something very consistent with the universe of Reverso and this complication was famous in the 30’s because of its level of purity. It was the perfect fit. Aesthetically it is interesting because you conserve large surfaces of polished metal, so it works very well.
From an industry perspective, there was a recent announcement by a brand, where they successfully converted an entire escapement system into a singular component, using new-age metallurgy. Your thoughts?
Jaeger-LeCoultre being a 188-year-old maison and being created on the idea of innovations – we are all in for continuing to push boundaries of fine watchmaking. That being said watchmaking should remain mechanical in a way and so we are looking for more mechanical ways to improve our watches, precision and also durability, so the watch can last forever and can always have interchangeable parts. Antoine LeCoultre, our founder received many medals for his capacity to create watches whose parts can be easily repaired or replaced, which was very important at the time and still is. And so we are looking into this as opposed to replacing an entire movement with one single part. We are looking into ways of refining the way mechanical watches can perform than just simplifying it. Watchmaking is also about how to create a beautiful movement. It is not just engineering but also beautiful mechanics and we try with our watchmakers to design the mechanics. Everything is done for its beauty. The choice of a colour of a screw for example, is decided for its relevance and beauty.
What is the future of traditional watchmaking, in an era where technology is ever evolving, especially over the last decade?
Personally, I am convinced that watches created with a lot of know-how and skills are real vectors of emotion. I am sure that this is the future of watchmaking. We need to convince our customers with a lot of emotion in our product.
When Tudor first unveiled an all black ceramic Black Bay for Only Watch 2019 (Charity Auction), it left many Tudorholics down under, wondering whether the material / model would ever make a comeback. This week, fans of the brand have every reason to celebrate with Tudor unveiling a new standard production all black ceramic Black Bay – with a few tweaks of course. Meet the new Tudor Black Bay Ceramic.
This handsome, resilient, everyday timepiece comes with a matt black 41mm ceramic case and a unidirectional rotatable bezel in black-PVD-treated 316L steel with 60-minute graduated disc in black ceramic with sunray satin finish and engraved markings and numerals. Its matt black monobloc ceramic case has sand-blasted surfaces with bevelled edges, mirror-polished for a striking contrast, and is finished with very pronounced lines. Note: It is also the first Tudor Watch to be certified by Federal Institute of Metrology or METAS.
METAS or the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology tests a watch under certain parameters, making it a ‘Master Chronometer’. These include the main functional characteristics of a watch including precision, resistance to magnetic fields, waterproofness and power reserve. Its standards are incredibly high, starting with precision. In order to qualify, a watch must be able to function within a 5-second range of variation each day (0 +5), that is to say 5 seconds less than the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) (-4 +6) carried out on a single movement and a second less than TUDOR’s internal standard, which is applied to the brand’s models with a Manufacture Calibre (-2 +4). The certification also guarantees the timekeeping accuracy of a watch subjected to magnetic fields of 15,000 gauss. Finally, it also guarantees that the waterproof capability claimed by the manufacturer conforms with the International Organization for Standardization (ISO) standard 22810:2010, as does the power reserve of each Master Chronometer watch. It should also be noted that two prerequisites are necessary before the certification can be obtained: Swiss manufacturing must conform with the criteria of Swiss Made, and the movement must be certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC).
Waterproof to 200m, the case is fitted with a new automatic movement Calibre MT5602-1U, which powers the Black Bay Ceramic. It has the finish typical of TUDOR Manufacture Calibres but is entirely in black, in line with the general appearance of the watch, emphasising its distinctive performance. Its rotor in black tungsten monobloc is openwork and satin-brushed with sand-blasted details, and its bridges and mainplate have alternate sand-blasted, polished surfaces and laser decorations. Its build is designed to ensure robustness and precision, as is its variable inertia balance, which is maintained by a sturdy traversing bridge with a two-point fixing. Together with its non-magnetic silicon hairspring, the Manufacture Calibre MT5602-1U is able to function within a tolerance range of 5 seconds (0 +5). The high-functioning automatic calibre offers a respectable 70-hour power reserve certified by METAS.
Compared to the unique model of 2019 which featured an all black dial and matt black indexes and hands, this one comes with a black dial and applied hour markers with off-white luminescent material. Definitely a lot more legible. Worn on a hybrid leather and rubber strap with 316L steel folding clasp and safety catch in black PVD-treated 316L steel and an additional black fabric strap with cream band and black PVD-treated 316L steel buckle (Included in the box), the new Tudor Black bay Ceramic is priced at approx. $6,440 Australian Dollars. Buyers also benefit from a five-year transferable guarantee with no registration or periodic maintenance checks required
Written by Rod Mckinnon
IWC and AMG, the high-performance subsidiary of Mercedes-Benz AG recently unveiled the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “AMG”. The two brands seamlessly complement each other and have had a synergistic relationship since 2004 – grounded in many common values, including the pursuit of technical perfection and uncompromising quality. Just like I was told when I bought my first AMG C63 – Rod this ride will change you… I say the same to all future owners of the IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition ‘AMG’ – Watch Fam… This watch will change you.
“IWC Schaffhausen and Mercedes-AMG share both a passion for performance and design, as well as a commitment to engineering excellence down to the smallest detail. Over the last 17 years of our partnership, IWC and AMG have shared exhilarating moments in motorsport and beyond and we have created many lasting memories for our clients. Today we are proud to introduce Mercedes-AMG as a permanent feature of our Pilot‘s Watch Collection, starting with the Pilot‘s Watch Chronograph Edition “AMG”, explains Christoph Grainger-Herr, CEO of IWC Schaffhausen.
“The partnership between Mercedes-AMG and IWC has all the components that are needed for a successful and long-lasting collaboration. It’s very rare to come across a company and people with so many common interests and values. Our commitment to craftsmanship of the highest level and our pursuit of emotional product experiences is what has united us since 2004 – and the Pilot‘s Watch Chronograph Edition “AMG” once again underlines our strong partnership,” said Philipp Schiemer, CEO of Mercedes-AMG.
Measuring 43mm in diameter, the new Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “AMG” boasts multiple “firsts.” It is the first Pilot‘s Watch Chronograph with a case made of extremely light and scratch-resistant titanium and the first to feature the 69385 caliber. A14.9mm thick case might seem like a lot but the titanium body clearly makes up for the weight. The Grade 5 titanium finish gives the watch its matte grey appearance, inspired by AMG‘s signature Selenite Grey Magno paint finish. The chronograph pushers are placed at the two and four o’clock positions while the lugs hold a black embossed calf leather strap with contrast stitching and folding clasp.
The highlight of this piece would have to be the woven carbon fibre dial, a material directly derived from AMG‘s aero components. These parts are produced in a complex process involving heat and pressure and are known for their remarkable lightness and rigidity. The raw material is continuous carbon fibres, which are processed on weaving machines into textile structures, giving the end product its characteristic woven “carbon look”. The black carbon dial provides the perfect contrast to the silver chronograph sub-dials, reminiscent of motorsport instruments. Personally, I would’ve loved to see an Ingenieur base used for this collaboration piece but hey no complaints.
Powering this watch is an IWC-manufactured calibre 69385 – a robust and precise chronograph movement that enables stop time measurements of up to 12 hours. The chronograph function is controlled by a column wheel, an intricate component with two functional levels. The Mercedes-AMG logo is emblazoned on the tinted sapphire crystal case back. The Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “AMG” is priced at AUD $14,300 and will be available for pre-order from 21st May online at IWC.com, through IWC boutiques and authorised retail partners. The timepiece is eligible for registration under the My IWC care program and thus benefits from a 6-year extension to the standard 2-year International Limited Warranty.
The Super Chronomat, Breitling’s boldest Chronomat to date, is the ultimate choice for those who want a timepiece mastering the balance between sturdy and stylish. Inspired by the Frecce Tricolori watch that Breitling created for the hotshots of the Italian Air Force’s aerobatic fleet in 1983, the Super Chronomat is a supercharged, all-purpose sports watch that’s elegant enough for the evening as well.
For years TAG Heuer has held a sweet spot in Australia, fitting snuggly between the trinity of quality, versatility and design. And the brands’ Carrera Collection perfectly exemplifies that. Today the Swiss luxury watchmaker proudly unveils a gorgeous new iteration of its highly coveted Carrera timepiece in a brand new colour: a deep blue-green with an intense shimmer, further heightening the undeniable charm of the acclaimed collection. INTRODUCING: TAG Heuer Carrera Green Special Edition.
The TAG Heuer Carrera collection pays homage to the brand’s fascinating motor racing heritage with a line of timeless, sporty and elegant chronographs. Since their introduction more than 60 years ago under the visionary Jack Heuer, these timepieces, with their clean lines and perfect proportions, have become an instantly recognisable icon. And this expertly reworked new edition is a worthy successor to the original 1963 model.
At a decent size of 39mm, this watch isn’t too large to feel clumsy on the wrist, while still creating a significant visual impact. It is limited to 500 pieces and comes housed in an elegant, polished stainless-steel case. The signature wrist-hugging faceted lugs, polished push buttons and dial all chime pleasingly with its illustrious predecessor. What steals the limelight is the stunning teal sunray-brushed colour dial. Rarely featured in TAG Heuer collections, this colour is a subtle
blend of blue and green, giving the watch a fresh, creative flair and sophisticated boldness. Three snailed subdials – A minute chronograph at 3 o’clock, hour chronograph at 9 o’clock and permanent second indicator at 6 o’clock completes the tri-compax layout. The hour and minute hands are faceted and coated with Super-LumiNova® for optimum readability. Behind the retro-style “glass box” domed sapphire crystal, also inspired by the original Heuer Carrera, the dial sports the emblematic Heuer logo and Carrera name.
As for the caseback – TAG Heuer has added touches of teal on the movement’s column wheel and in the “Calibre Heuer 02” and “Swiss Made” inscriptions on the oscillating mass, which is visible through the sapphire crystal caseback.
The watch is powered by the Calibre Heuer 02 manufacture movement, a cutting-edge automatic chronograph movement made exclusively in Switzerland at the TAG Heuer factory in Chevenez. It comprises 168 parts, including a column wheel and vertical clutch – a guarantee of outstanding chronometric performance. All features enfolded, it also offers a power reserve of a whopping 80 hours.
Presented on a black alligator leather strap featuring a folding clasp with two safety push buttons, the new TAG Heuer Carrera Green Special Edition will be available from May 2021 – sold exclusively in TAG Heuer boutiques and through
the brand’s e-commerce websites.