Patek Philippe has rightfully grabbed headlines this week by unveiling three new Grand Complications. INTRODUCING: the Split Second Chronograph Ref. 5370P-011, Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5270J-001 and Minute Repeater Tourbillon Ref. 5303R-001. These three timepieces represent a perfect meld of tradition and innovation. Paired with beautiful finesse in looks and features, they enrich the already extensive lineup of grand complications.
Patek Philippe Split Second Chronograph Ref. 5370P-011
Back in 2015, Patek Philippe introduced the Split Second Chronograph with a beautiful black enamel dial that created quite a stir. Capitalising on their expertise in grand feu enamel dials, the artisans at Patek Philippe have updated the highly coveted 41mm platinum classic with a stunning blue face (enamel dial). It might look like another blue watch, but compare it to the original and I’m, pretty sure you’ll rethink that. The blue face adds a very young, fresh and contemporary feel to the Ref. 5370P split-seconds chronograph. The grand feu blue enamel dial, those gold applied Breguet numerals on an 18K gold dial plate and the tachymeter scale adds a touch of elegance to what is otherwise a relatively sporty timepiece. The results of short-time measurements are readable with the same precision and speed: the sweep chronograph and rattrapante hands as well as the instantaneous 30-minute counter hand contrast as clearly against the blue dial as do the white-printed scales.
In terms of the actual build and wearability, not much has changed on this front. The case is crafted from platinum and has the same elegant proportions, 41mm in diameter and 13.56mm high. It is graced with a concave bezel, elongated lugs and finished off with a white-gold cabochon at the end.
At the heart of this model is a breathtaking manually wound CHR 29‑535 PS calibre, equipped with a column wheel and a horizontal clutch. The movement stands out with its classic architecture and is visible through the sapphire crystal caseback. Wearers can expect a power reserve of 55-hours with the chronograph engaged and 65-hours without the chronograph. The Split Second Chronograph Ref. 5370P-011 is worn on a dusky blue, hand-stitched alligator leather strap with square scales.
Manually wound mechanical movement. Caliber CHR 29‑535 PS. Split-Seconds chronograph. Instantaneous 30-minute counter. Seconds subdial.
Grand Feu blue enamel, gold applied Breguet numerals. 18K gold dial plate. Tachymeter scale.
Platinum. Interchangeable full back and sapphire-crystal case back. Water resistant to 30 m. Case diameter: 41 mm. Height: 13.56 mm.
Alligator leather with square scales, hand-stitched, shiny dusk blue. Fold-over clasp.
Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5270J-001
Next on the list of coveted complications is the Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5270J-001. Ok let’s be real here, the 5270’s have not been as accepted and appreciated by watch connoisseurs as much as their predecessors, particularly the 1518 and my personal favorite – the 5970’s. However as a true heir to their iconic 1941 classic (Ref. 1518), the Ref. 5270 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph which was available since 2018 in a platinum version, now proudly makes its debut with a yellow-gold case.
I personally quite like that silvery opaline dial with gold applied hour markers. It harmonises really well with the 41mm yellow-gold case and the hand-stitched matte-chocolate brown alligator leather strap with square scales. Timeless! The displays of the perpetual calendar are tastefully balanced with an analog date at 6 o’clock and a double aperture for the day and month at 12 o’clock. They are complemented with two small round apertures for the day/night indicator and the leap year cycle as well as the typical moon-phase window.
Aesthetics aside the new Yellow-Gold Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5270J-001 features the first chronograph movement with a perpetual calendar developed and crafted entirely by Patek Philippe – Caliber CH 29-535 PS Q with six patented innovations and an extremely slender calendar mechanism… And should you prefer to have this 5270J engraved, it is also available with a second yellow-gold case-back.
Manually wound mechanical movement. Caliber CH 29‑535 PS Q. Chronograph. Central chronograph hand. Instantaneous 30-minute counter. Perpetual Calendar. Day, month, leap year and day/night display in apertures. Date by hand. Seconds subdial.
Silvery opaline, gold applied hour markers. Tachymeter scale.
Yellow gold. Interchangeable full back and sapphire-crystal case back. Water resistant to 30 m. Diameter: 41 mm. Height: 12.4 mm.
Patek Philippe Minute Repeater Tourbillon Ref. 5303R-001
The Patek Philippe Minute Repeater Tourbillon Ref. 5303R-001 created explicitly for connoisseurs of striking watches, first made its debut at the “Watch Art Grand Exhibition Singapore 2019”, as a limited edition of 12 watches. Now a slightly modified version of Ref. 5303R-001 has made its way to the Patek Philippe catalogue as a regular production model.
The dial features an open architecture, to reveal the hammers and gongs and a part of the tourbillon cage (at 6 o’clock). Traditionalists will have a whole new level of appreciation for the white gold hour and minute hands that have been lacquered in black and skeletonised and the black hour circle with minute markers printed in white and golden powdered dots. In this veritably perfect composition, the filigreed steel parts glisten against the backdrop of the rose gilt plate.
Considering there’s quite a bit to accommodate here, the case measures 42mm in diameter and is constructed in 18k Rose Gold. The flanks of the case band and lugs feature white gold skeletonised inlays with “foliage motifs”, adding to the overall appeal of the watch. A white-gold slide in the left-hand case flank that activates the minute repeater features the same motif.
Powering the Minute Repeater Tourbillon Ref. 5303R-001 is a manually wound caliber – R TO 27 PS. The movement here was subtly reworked to highlight its full beauty. For instance, certain components were pierced, as is common for skeletonized movements. Of course, Patek Philippe also mobilized its heritage in the manual finissage of movement parts: it decorated the plate with Genevan circular graining, applied a delicate perlage to the recesses, and decorated the hammers with a circular satin finish. The movement can be admired through the sapphire-crystal case back and is framed by a white gold rim. Its open-worked decoration echoes the case inlays and the repeater slide. A shiny black hand-stitched alligator leather strap with square scales, completes the look.
Manual winding. Caliber R TO 27 PS. Minute repeater with chime on two classic gongs. Tourbillon. Small seconds.
Transparent sapphire, black hour circle with minute markers printed in white and golden powdered dots.
Rose gold. Sapphire crystal case back. UV-protected sapphire crystal glass. Humidity- and dust-protected only (not water-resistant). Diameter: 42 mm. Height: 12.13 mm.
Alligator leather with square scales, hand-stitched, shiny black. Fold-over clasp.