When it comes to creating dreams, few weave them as masterfully as Jaeger-LeCoultre. The Grande Maison’s long and exceptional history in creating a treasure trove of game changing timepieces have contributed to the evolution of the brand and the horological domain. At the SIHH 2019, we caught up with Stéphane Belmont, Director of Heritage and Rare Pieces, Jaeger-LeCoultre who spoke to us about how dipping into the past has great lessons for the present and the future…
You’ve been with Jaeger-LeCoultre for over 20 years now. How have you seen the Grande Maison evolve?
Oh! It has totally transformed. When I joined the company, it was more about the Reverso, which had three quarters of the sales. The brand was transformed from being a classic brand selling Reverso’s to becoming an international brand with a larger variety of products. Also, the brand was more subtle. We managed to highlight the watchmaking skills, thanks to collections like the Hybris Mechanica. It became more visible. Now, we are known for our movements, and what is inside the watch-as much as what is on the outside. Before, it was more about the design.
Jaeger-LeCoultre… a watchmaker for both men and women…
Despite the fact that we focused a lot on the complications, we managed to win over a solid female clientele base. For example, with the Rendez-Vous collection, we dedicated the world of complications to women. It became the second best-selling collection of the brand. Despite being technical we have managed to reach a good balance between male and female customers.
Tell us a bit about your role as the Director of Heritage and Rare Pieces…
The focus is to try and find our rare pieces. It is also about exploring the archives and figuring out which watches are most interesting. Which of these are more collectible? We collect data and figure out what styles may provide continued interest. We advise collectors on what they should buy and focus on. We provide more information on the product. It is also about sharing the heritage and history of the brand. We want to digitalize key information and make it available on an interface for both internal and external use. We want to make people go in-depth for our history. We were part of an exhibition in Venice last year, that aims to preserve rare crafts all over the world. We represented the watchmaking part. People were amazed to discover these creations. We represented the calibre 101 and also realized back then, there is indeed a lot that we have to share!
What are some of the vintage models you would like to bring back?
The Futurematic, which is a self-winding wrist watch without a crown. It was manufactured between 1951 and 1959. There was no need to wind the watch. The display was interesting. There were two holes in the dial. One for display and one for power reserve. It is something that was not conventional. The idea of stopping the watch before it runs out of power was interesting. We could take that philosophy today, and do something really interesting with it.
Image via (https://www.vintage-portfolio.com)
Classic watches have made a comeback…
People want classic watches but not boring ones. They want something special. The function must have something particular. A classic watch can gain character with a specific complication. People also want simple complications- refined and special but not too complex. For instance, I love the idea of two power reserves; when you don’t wear the watch it keeps running.
What makes the MASTER GRANDE TRADITION GYROTOURBILLON WESTMINSTER PERPÉTUEL so special?
It is special because it marks fifteen years of improving and transforming traditional complications. It really adapts these transformations to the wrist. There is the fine sound of the minute repeater. We have shown that we can create very complicated watches, that can be used every day without any trouble! This spirit is expressed very well in the watch. The perpetual calendar is new. It marks all that we have loved and is full of technical wonders. The design and finishing also shows evolution.
Click here to learn more about the new MASTER GRANDE TRADITION GYROTOURBILLON WESTMINSTER PERPÉTUEL.
You can’t leave the iconic Reverso out of a conversation about Jaeger-LeCoultre…
We are busy working on the next anniversary of the Reverso. It is a matter of time! It will come on the occasion of the anniversary. This year we are presenting the Reverso with a red dial. Personally, I tend to wear only blue and silver dial watches, but I guess it is time for me to explore other colours! It is simple but very attractive.