roger dubuis

There’s no better way to start the year than with the SIHH. It’s like Christmas for watch lovers, after all 11 months can be quite a wait. By the looks of it, we can tell you for sure that 2017 is going to be an exciting one. For more than 25 years, this fair has illustrated the best examples of fine watchmaking. The 27th chapter was all about change with more members included, bringing the total number of exhibitors to 30 – a record for the SIHH, which simply meant one thing… more hustle and bustle for us and more wrist magic for you. Yes, of course, we were at Geneva for the year’s first major watch showcase soaking in the energy and excitement and we’re super excited to bring you our top picks, which will make their way to Australia later this year.

A. LANGE & SÖHNE – 1815 ANNUAL CALENDAR

With a manually wound movement, analogue date, day and month indications as well as a moon-phase display, the 1815 Annual Calendar presents itself as a classic interpretation of a complication that is both attractive and useful. Here’s where it gets interesting for mechanical lovers. The 1815 Annual Calendar consists of a calendar that can take into account the month with 30 or 31 days, automatically switching to the right date at the end of the month. If the watch hasn’t been used for a long time, a fast adjusting device at 2 o’clock makes it possible to collectively advance all indications. For the first time in a Lange calendar model, the date can also be separately advanced with an additional recessed push piece. Talk about german engineering !! The argenté-coloured background of the classic dial, blued-steel hands, contrast-rich black Arabic numerals and peripheral railway-track minute scale grace the dial in subtle beauty. Calculated to remain accurate for 122.6 years, the moon-phase display is integrated into the subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock. This would without a doubt have to be the Saxon Manufacture’s highlight of 2017.

AUDEMARS PIGUET – ROYAL OAK PERPETUAL CALENDAR IN BLACK CERAMIC

Let us introduce you to a universally loved collection of Audemars Piguet. Presented entirely in brushed black ceramic, the new Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar is truly next level stuff. The finishing of this 41 mm case and bracelet takes approximately 30 hours to machine, hand polish and put together in comparison to the steel or gold equivalent which takes 6-7 hours. On the dial is Audemars Piguet’s signature Royal Oak “Grande Tapisserie” guilloche in slate grey with black sub dials. Priced at around 110K, the ceramic perpetual calendar will be available in the second half of 2017.

CARTIER – DRIVE DE CARTIER EXTRA FLAT

It’s been the talk of the fair. The new Drive de Cartier Extra Flat is all about “less is more”, with a case 40% slimmer (7mm) than the original Drive de Cartier which was introduced at the SIHH last year. Still available in the same cushion-shaped case design, it lends an unaffected touch of sophistication to everyday mechanics. The absence of a guilloche dial adds to the simplicity of the watch. The silvered satin-brushed dial with sunray effect is beautifully complemented with signature Cartier Roman numerals and blue steel sword-shaped hands. Beating inside this 39mm white gold case is Cartier’s manually-wound mechanical Caliber 430MC movement. Apart from the limited edition white gold version, the 2017 Drive de Cartier Extra Flat is also available in a pink gold version. In our books, a true winner!

IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN – DA VINCI AUTOMATIC MOON PHASE 36

A masterstroke from IWC! The ‘Da Vinci’ collection of the 90s was a runaway success and it was only a matter of time before they brought back their beloved classic watch. This ladies’ watch with a moon phase display is in red gold with a bronze coloured alligator leather strap. The recessed inner circle adds a more pronounced three-dimensional structure to the silver plated dial and emphasizes circularity as a design feature of the line, accentuating the femininity of the watch. IWC have foregone their tonneau shape case (of the first Da Vinci collection) for a more classic round look. Where wearability is concerned, the Da Vinci features circular or hinged lugs, which means that the watch is extremely comfortable on the wrist – something not seen on modern watches these days. The watch honours Leonardo da Vinci’s contribution to the common understanding of aesthetics during the Renaissance with an engraving of the “Flower of Life” on the back.

JAEGER-LECOULTRE – MASTER CONTROL CHRONOGRAPH

A stunning sector dial and a 12-hour chronograph are the key highlights of this watch. Undoubtedly vintage-inspired with a nod to old legendary chronographs. The dial has a very nice layout with a blue tachymetric scale on the periphery, sector hour markers, skeletonized blue hands and blue transfers on the chrono registers. Beating inside is Jaeger-leCoultre’s automatic in-house calibre 751G.

MB&F – HM7 AQUAPOD

The HM7 dives deep down into the ocean for inspiration. The organic jellyfish-inspired design of HM7 Aquapod is counter-balanced by the very mechanical horology within: a central flying tourbillon tops the concentric vertical movement architecture, with indications radiating out from the centre like ripples in a pond. Where a jellyfish generates power from food caught in its tentacles, HM7 generates power from its tentacle-like automatic winding rotor. While it is not a diving watch, it is surely at home in water and has a unidirectional rotating bezel that floats apart like a life buoy. And, like many jellyfish, the HM7 glows in the dark!

MONTBLANC 1858 AUTOMATIC DUAL TIME

The 1858 collection marks a return of Montblanc’s vintage font and logo (the Mont Blanc Mountain). With an understated clean vintage look, this watch combines all the essential elements from the vintage 1858 Collection. The allure of the deep black dial is intensified by the cathedral-shaped hands and Arabic numerals enhanced with beige Super-LumiNova. The 44mm case is in satinated stainless steel, while the bezel and crown have been produced in bronze. The inclusion of bronze makes the watch even more interesting considering the metal ages differently for different wearers, which means each watch will be truly unique to its owner! The Dual-time 1858, comes with an in-house developed dual-time module with an extra hour hand. An elegantly engraved caseback and the brand new aged, cognac-coloured calfskin strap finishes the look.

OFFICINE PANERAI – LUMINOR SUBMERSIBLE 1950 3 DAYS AUTOMATIC BRONZO PAM00671

Well Hello Bronzo! The new Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Automatic Bronzo comes with a refreshing new appeal. The 47 mm case is in bronze, used for the very first time with a blue dial. Extremely strong structurally, this material preserves its warm original tones, while acquiring an agreeably worn look from the brownish-green patina which forms over time. This patina is the result of the reaction of bronze with external agents and it has no effect on the intrinsic properties of the material. The manufacture developed self-winding P.9010 automatic calibre testifies to the technical supremacy of the watch. It is a special edition limited to 1,000 units.

PIAGET ALTIPLANO 60TH ANNIVERSARY

2017 is the year of the Altiplano as the thinnest watch celebrates 60 years. Colour and light have always been at the very heart of Piaget’s creative signature characteristics. Limited to 260 pieces, the watch is powered by calibre 1203P, an automatic movement with a micro- rotor that’s just 3mm high. At 40 mm, the Altiplano exudes an original and refreshing mood entirely attuned to the codes of contemporary elegance!

ROGER DUBUIS – EXCALIBUR CARBON SPIDER

The beast is finally out and this year it’s all about pushing the use of Carbon even further. Skeletonised to the end, the watch features a DLC- treated crown, case-back and ‘container’, all made from titanium. The light yet sturdy material is teamed here with multi-layered carbon for the case, as well as vulcanized rubber on the container and red lacquer lighting up the bezel. Believe it or not, the movement plate, bridges, and tourbillon upper cage is made entirely in carbon. The honeycomb dial décor inspired by automobile radiator grilles creates a perfect background to highlight the ‘Astral Skeleton’ flying tourbillon.

ULYSSE NARDIN – HOURSTRIKER PIN-UP

A graceful dance on the dial can be a pleasant sight! A charming and delicate figure gazes seductively at the viewer….the sublime work of art is a result of meticulously detailed miniature painting. The hourstriker reveals the sensual curves of the dancer…in one of the most intricate complications in mechanical timekeeping. It comes alive on the hour, the half-hour and whenever the push-button is activated. Artistic and functional this object of beauty changes the very experience of time! Limited to 28 rose gold and platinum timepieces.

VACHERON CONSTANTIN – LES CABINOTIERS SYMPHONIA GRANDE SONNERIE 1860

We’re excited to see the brand’s first ever grande sonnerie wristwatch! The watch embodies a two- fold technical prowess: creating a supreme complication that only a handful of virtuoso watchmakers in the world are capable of mastering, while making it both simple and secure to use for its owner. The two mainspring barrels can be wound using the crown, and a little switch on the bezel helps select the chiming function. These are the only little clues to the astounding technical feats within, in what otherwise looks like a highly classic and simple watch.