The Panthère motif has been an integral part of maison Cartier’s brand identity since the late 1940s. From motif to material or volume, everything related to the animal provides reason to go beyond the different crafts and techniques allowing new creative territories resulting from unexpected encounters. This year the obsession continues with Cartier unveiling two new “Métiers d’Art” watches, created around the natural and the precious, through exchanges between marquetry craftsmen, jewellers, designers, enamellers, gem-setters and miniature painters. INTRODUCING: Ronde Louis Cartier Straw and Gold Marquetry Watch and Ronde Louis Cartier Enamel Filigree Watch.
Ronde Louis Cartier Straw and Gold Marquetry Watch
Combining high art and high horology, the new Ronde Louis Cartier Straw and Gold Marquetry Watch is made entirely by the marquetry craftsman from the Maison des Métiers d’Art in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. Just like the name suggests, two techniques are being showcased here: Straw and Gold Marquetry.
The precious metal is added to the palette of materials already used in marquetry, making it possible to work with volume and create a rendering reminiscent of bas-relief. An adventurous, never-before-seen undertaking that required the marquetry craftsman to be trained in gold work by the jewellers from the Maison des Métiers d’Art. Seventy-five blades of straw in different sizes and shades, produced in 11 colours, make up the parts of the décor.
The feline’s head is comprised of more than sixty-five elements in white, yellow and pink gold, which are shaped and satin-finished one by one. With an unusual play of meta-exploration, yellow gold wires are embedded in natural straw elements, adding complexity and sophistication that the craftsmen explored for the first time.
Cartier combines ceramic arts with the art of composition, to which marquetry belongs, by enamelling the spots on the coat and eyes. The rich colour palette contrasts black and white with a large number of shades between opaline and yellow. For the eyes, four different shades come together on a miniscule surface. The gaze comes to life with sparkle, shine and depth, an expression of Cartier’s figurative and realist art. The spots in the background are created with miniature paint.
It took more than 100 hours to create this piece, 97 of which was spent on the dial alone. Presented in a 42mm 18k white gold case, this 30 piece limited edition is powered by a hand wound 430 MC calibre that delivers a comfortable 38 hour power reserve.
42 mm, thickness: 8.03 mm, 18K white gold, Crown set with a sapphire cabochon, Dial with panther motif in straw and gold marquetry Grey alligator leather strap, Limited and numbered edition of 30 pieces
MANUFACTURE MECHANICAL MOVEMENT WITH MANUAL WINDING 430 MC
Encasing diameter: 9 lines, Total dimensions: 20.5 mm, Thickness: 2.15 mm, Number of jewels: 18, Frequency: 21’600, vibrations/hour, Power reserve: 38 hours
Ronde Louis Cartier Enamel Filigree Watch
The dial of the Ronde Louis Cartier Enamel Filigree Watch is produced using the filigree and enamel techniques. First, the enamel powder is heated, and the glass is stretched until it takes the shape of bamboo, before being set and fixed to the dial by tiny strands of yellow gold. This creates the bamboo effect used in the foreground.
To add perspective to the motif and play with the effects of depth, the craftsmen had to turn to other areas of expertise: domed champlevé enamel for the bamboo in the background and black spots of the beast’s fur and eyes, as well as miniature painting for the sky and the background bamboo.
With a scene entirely dedicated to the Maison’s emblematic animal, this watch is available in a limited edition of 30 individually numbered pieces. The 36mm case is made from 18k white gold while the bezel, dial and buckle is set with 269 brilliant-cut diamonds.
36 mm, thickness: 9.13 mm, 18K white gold, Crown set with a brilliant-cut diamond (0.08 ct), Bezel, dial and buckle set with 269 brilliant-cut diamonds (1.99 ct), Dial with panther motif in enamel filigree, Blue alligator leather strap, Limited and numbered edition of 30 pieces
MANUFACTURE MECHANICAL MOVEMENT WITH MANUAL WINDING 430 MC
Encasing diameter: 9 lines, Total dimensions: 20.5 mm, Thickness: 2.15 mm, Number of jewels: 18, Frequency: 21’600, vibrations/hour, Power reserve: 38 hours