An interesting addition to the Black Bay Collection is the new Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K presented at Watches & Wonders 2021. This is Tudor’s first ever gold diver and though it might steer slightly away from that ‘Accessible’ category we’ve known the collection to sit in, it is still very competitive in terms of price and value, when compared to most Gold Divers on the market.
There’s no major difference between the new Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K and lets say a steel model in the collection, besides of course, the solid 18k yellow gold case. The 39mm case is entirely satin-finished for a matt effect, perfectly balancing the scales of elegance and sportiness – it truly ups the ante for other gold watches in the industry. In addition to the case, the screw-down winding crown (with the Tudor Rose in relief), the bezel and caseback are clad in gold as well. The unidirectional rotatable bezel has a 60-minute graduated disc in matt green anodised aluminium and gold gilded markings and numerals. With waterproofness of 200m (660ft), you know this watch isn’t playing around when it comes to matters under the sea.
The matt 18 ct yellow gold of the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K is emphasised by the elegant combination of dial and bezel, which are a rich “golden green” in tone with matt gold details. This so called “golden green” colourway is unique and proves to be a refreshing contender against its competition. Ensuring perfect legibility underwater are the distinctively large hour markers and characteristic angular hands known to collectors as snowflake- that appeared in the brand’s 1969 catalogue. Both are executed in 18 ct yellow gold, with grade A Swiss Super-LumiNova® luminescent material.
Beating at 28 800 beats/hour (4 Hz), the MT5400 calibre (a self-winding mechanical movement with bidirectional rotor system) gives the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K a power reserve of approx. 70 hours. It has the finish typical of TUDOR Manufacture Calibres: its rotor in tungsten monobloc is openwork and satin-brushed with sand-blasted details, and its bridges and mainplate have alternate sand-blasted, polished surfaces and laser decorations. Its build has been designed to ensure robustness, longevity, reliability and precision, as has a variable inertia balance, which is maintained by a sturdy traversing bridge with a two-point fixation. Together with its non-magnetic silicon hairspring, the Manufacture Calibre MT5400 is certified as a chronometer by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), with its performance going beyond the standards set by this independent institute. In fact, where COSC allows an average variation in the daily running of a watch of between -4 and +6 seconds in relation to absolute time in a single movement, TUDOR insists on -2 +4 seconds’ variation in its running when it is completely assembled. The movement is visible through the sapphire caseback – a first for Tudor.
To match the overall theme, Tudor is now offering two straps – Domed dark brown alligator strap with 18 ct yellow gold buckle and an additional green Jacquard fabric strap with gold-coloured band and 18 ct yellow gold buckle.
The Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K comes with a five-year transferable guarantee, without registration or mandatory maintenance checks.