Tudor just dropped its first launch of 2020. The new Black Bay Fifty-Eight ‘Navy Blue’. In 1969, TUDOR introduced a divers’ watch with a blue dial and bezel. The other sports watches in the collection were soon attired in blue, immediately creating a lasting aesthetic hallmark known as “TUDOR Blue”. Adopted by the French navy for its TUDOR divers’ watches during the 1970s, this livery became part of the collective imagination.
The Black Bay Fifty-Eight “Navy Blue” follows in this tradition with its navy blue dial and bezel insert. The 39mm polished and satin-finished case is crafted from 316L steel. It is aptly proportioned to suit slim wrists, people who like more compact watches and, of course, vintage enthusiasts. The unidirectional rotatable bezel has a 60-minute graduated disc in matt blue with anodised aluminium and silver gilded markings and numerals that enables a diver to accurately monitor their diving time. Other details include: the screw-down winding crown with the Tudor Rose in relief, the circular satin-brushed steel winding crown tube, the domed sapphire crystal and 200m water-resistance.
The dial of the watch is distinctively recognisable with large luminescent hour markers and the characteristic angular hands known to collectors as snowflake – that appeared in the brand’s 1969 catalogue.
Beating inside is the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight ‘Navy Blue’ is an MT5402 calibre that displays hour, minute and second functions and has been designed specifically for medium-sized TUDOR watches. Its openwork rotor is entirely satin-brushed and its bridges and mainplate have alternate sand-blasted surfaces and laser decorations. Its structure has been designed to ensure robustness, longevity and reliability, as has its variable inertia balance, which is maintained by a sturdy traversing bridge with a two-point fixation. Together with its non-magnetic silicon hairspring, the Manufacture Calibre MT5402 is chronometer-certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), with its performance going beyond the standards set by this independent institute. In fact, where COSC allows for an average variation in the daily running rate of a watch movement of between -4 and +6 seconds in relation to absolute time, TUDOR applies a tolerance of between -2 and +4 seconds’ variation in its daily rate on the watch fully assembled. With a 70-hour power reserve, a wearer can take off the watch on a Friday evening and put it back on again on Monday morning without having to re-set and wind it.
The new Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight ‘Navy Blue’ comes in a choice of three straps / bracelet:
- Riveted 316L steel bracelet with polished and satin-brushed finish (RRP: $5,000 Australian Dollars)
- Blue “soft touch” (made from a synthetic, tactile material resembling flannel) with folding clasp and safety catch, (RRP: $4,580 Australian Dollars) and
- Blue fabric strap with silver band and buckle (RRP: $4,580 Australian Dollars)